Bandhani is tie-dye made by tying thousands of tiny knots in cloth before dyeing, creating dot patterns. Leheriya is made by rolling cloth diagonally and tying it at intervals, creating wave-like stripes; it's traditionally worn during Teej and the monsoon. Buy both in Bada Bazaar, Hathi Pol and at Shilpgram. Real handwork has slight irregularities and crinkled cloth.
Key facts
- Bandhani: dots from tiny tied knots
- Leheriya: waves, 'lahar' means wave
- Leheriya is worn for Teej and the monsoon
- Real bandhani comes crinkled, with uneven dots
Walk through Udaipur during the monsoon and you’ll see women in saris striped like waves. That’s leheriya.
Bandhani
Bandhani comes from bandhan, to tie. Artisans, mostly women, pinch up tiny points of cloth and tie them tight with thread, sometimes thousands per sari. The cloth is dyed, and the tied points stay undyed, making dots. Several rounds of tying and dyeing build up the colours.
Leheriya
Leheriya comes from lahar, wave. The cloth is rolled diagonally, tied at intervals and dyed. Unroll it and you get diagonal stripes. Re-roll at another angle and you get mothda, a checked pattern. Leheriya is worn for Hariyali Teej and the monsoon.
Spotting real handwork
- Real bandhani comes crinkled; the dots are slightly uneven.
- Dye shows on both sides.
- Printed copies are flat and too perfect.
- Fine bandhani with tiny dots costs more.
Where to buy
- Bada Bazaar and Hathi Pol — saris, dupattas, turbans and fabric.
- Shilpgram — direct from makers.
- Government emporiums — fixed prices.
Care
Hand-wash in cold water separately at first; natural dyes may run.
A dupatta or scarf is a light, lovely souvenir. More in our shopping guide.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between bandhani and leheriya?
Bandhani has dot patterns from tied knots. Leheriya has diagonal wave stripes from rolled and tied cloth.
How can I tell real bandhani from printed?
Real bandhani is crinkled, the dots are slightly uneven, and the dye shows on both sides. Printed fabric is flat and only one side is bright.
Where can I buy bandhani in Udaipur?
Bada Bazaar, Hathi Pol and Shilpgram.
